SEEDIQ VILLAGE Alang Tongan

We spent a day in the indigenous village Alang Tongan in Nantou County's Ren'ai Township to learn about the Seediq tribe's culture, including their traditional houses, weaving, and hunting. This was a nice experience! :)

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Travel in Taiwan (2021-05/06)
Arriving around noon, we were greeted by Iyung Sapu, who chatted amiably as we waited for other members of the tribe who would also be taking part in introducing us to the village. Expressing regret that we wouldn’t be staying to enjoy his cooking (indigenous fare is usually part and parcel of the Alang Tongan experience), he told us that although he’d previously left the village to study in the city, he felt compelled to return and contribute to community life.

Soon, a mother and daughter duo, Ape Neyung and Labe Sapu, arrived to instruct us in the art of weaving. Governed by strict taboos, weaving used to consume much of a tribeswoman’s time. Now the skill is the preserve of a few elders and their students. We watched as Labe Sapu demonstrated weaving on a floor loom – sitting on the floor, her back straight, fingers moving with practiced ease. How long could she work like that? “All day,” she replied breezily, “as long as I stop for lunch in the middle!”

When it was my turn to give the weaving a try, I felt like a clumsy child, entirely unable to mimic the fluid movements I’d just watched. Ape kept watch from the sidelines, occasionally pointing out dropped threads, which Labe kindly told me not to worry about. I had flashbacks of my grandmother valiantly trying to teach me how to knit.

After the weaving session, Sapu Nyung, the father of Iyung Sapu, handed us traditional woven shawls to wear and conducted a ceremony to inform the ancestors they had visitors. Evidently the ceremony should have taken place when we had first arrived, but the spirits seemed good-natured enough, accustomed to the intrusion of city folk like us. He then detailed the features of Seediq architecture by showing us a traditional house and a hut used for storing grain and other foodstuffs. Nyung – an expert in this field – has been involved in building projects nationwide.

Impressively, these traditional structures where built entirely without nails or cement, and yet they’re sturdy enough to withstand the multiple earthquakes and typhoons that rattle Taiwan every year. These techniques take a lifetime to hone and now – as with traditional weaving – there are few people who retain the knowledge.

Our final guides on this short indigenous-village experience tour were Iyung Pawan and his son Pawan Neyung, who was one of the many Seediq actors in the aforementioned movie. Fresh back from an archery competition, they demonstrated how bows and arrows are used to hunt in Nantou’s mountain forests. My companions had a go, but after so ineptly operating the loom, I demurred. It seemed safer to leave arrow firing to the professionals.

Dream Valley Waterfall
A brief drive further up the valley from Alang Tongan is the pretty Menggu Waterfall. In English “Menggu” can be translated as “Dream Valley” – an apt moniker given the spot’s picturesque nature. Visit during the May~August butterfly season to see some of the 120 species of butterfly which set the air aflutter.

How to Get There
By car: Follow National Highway 6 inland from central Taichung City until it ends at Provincial Highway 14. After another 10~15 minutes of driving eastwards, at the 71.5km marker turn left onto Songyuan Lane – the village is a short distance up the road.
By bus: From Puli’s bus station, take bus 6658, 6659, or 6664 and get off at Nanshanxi (南山溪) bus stop.

Visitors wishing to participate in the cultural experiences are asked to make advance reservations.

Alang Tongan Industry Promotion and Development Association Corp.
(社團法人南投縣仁愛鄉東岸部落產業促進發展協會)
Tel: (04) 2235-0323
Add: No. 80, Songyuan Lane, Nanfeng Village, Ren’ai Township, Nantou County
(南投縣仁愛鄉南豐村松原巷80號)