Heritage Sites and Eateries in Taoyuan City’s Zhongli District
TEXT | RAY HECHT
PHOTOS | VISION
Zhongli District forms the western part of Taoyuan City’s densely populated urban core. Despite its bustling network of traffic-heavy main roads and intricate web of smaller streets, the observant traveler will discover surprisingly tranquil enclaves of cultural and historical significance, conveniently situated close to each other.
Zhongli Railway Station, centrally located within the district, is Zhongli’s main hub. While it is not yet directly connected to the Taoyuan Airport MRT line, an extension project is currently underway, with the future MRT station (A23), close to the railway station, anticipated to be operational by 2028. In addition, the area around the railway station is now undergoing a significant remodeling, including relocation of the railway tracks underground. Slated for completion by 2030, this project aims to transform the station – sometimes cited as one of the least attractive in Taiwan – and its surroundings into a more modern, efficient, and appealing space.
Just to the north of Zhongli Railway Station is a lively neighborhood with numerous shops, eateries, and street vendors, which is especially busy on weekends. Among the businesses here are many that cater to migrant workers employed in Taoyuan’s countless factories, including restaurants offering Southeast Asian cuisine.
Zhongli Forest Story House
Located 400m southwest of ZhongPing Rd Story House, across the street from Zhongli Elementary School, the Zhongli Forest Story House is a slightly larger complex. It was previously used for the elementary school’s faculty housing. The site consists of three Japanese-style buildings, two wooden, one red brick, constructed in 1917, and designated as heritage buildings in 2015.
This is a fun educational place, great for families, with an array of targeted activities for children and cute artworks on display, including a Formosan black bear named Duma that is a perfect companion for taking selfies.
Building A is home to the Dudu Tea House, where you can enjoy Taiwanese egg cakes. Building B functions as a workshop for children. It has a reading room with books in Chinese as well as other languages. Artworks created by youngsters are on display, and you can purchase a variety of souvenir craftworks, such as paper flowers and quirky keychains. Courses for children are offered on weekends, on creative-theme subjects including painting and handicrafts. Building C houses a café, Gozen Kamicha (gozenkamicha.com.tw), which has a range of premium coffees and mouthwatering matcha-flavored desserts, such as green tea ice cream and waffles.
Zhongli Forest Story House
壢小故事森林
Add: No. 52, Bo’ai Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區博愛路52號)
Tel: (03) 425-1345
Hours: 10 am – 5 pm (closed on Mon)
FB: www.facebook.com/lixiaostory52
Zhongli 1941
This site, also known as the Zhongli Police Dorms, is quite similar in style to the two introduced above. It is the smallest of the three complexes. Located to the east of Zhongli Elementary School, next to the Taoyuan Police Department’s Zhongli Precinct, this was where local police officers resided back during the Japanese era. The “1941” in the name refers to the year the buildings were constructed. From the pedestrian bridge outside that connects to the school, you can get a good view of the old structures from above.
Comprising three buildings, the complex, occupied in more recent times by retired policemen, was vacated in 2002, meticulously restored starting in 2017, and opened to the public in 2019. Items from the past, such as an antique sewing machine, have been preserved. Sit down on the tatami floor and soak up the old Japanese atmosphere while viewing the exhibits, including historic photographs. One of the buildings houses a restaurant, Tina, which is known for its healthy foods and has many vegetarian options.
Zhongli 1941
壢景町
Add: No. 627, Yanping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區延平路627號)
Hours: 10 am – 5 pm (closed on Mon & Tue)
FB: www.facebook.com/1941zhongli
ZhongPing Rd Story House
Amidst a quarter brimming with shops and other commercial activity, you might not expect any sites of historic significance. But a 5-minute walk from the railway station is one of many buildings dating back to the Japanese era (1895-1945) preserved and renovated by the Taoyuan City Government’s Department of Cultural Affairs, the ZhongPing Rd Story House.
Built in 1930, this facility originally served as a residence for civil servants in the Japanese administration. After the end of World War II, it became home to the families of two high-level officials. The families resided in the building for nearly 60 years, moving out in 2007, and the building was officially designated a historic site in 2010. Renovations commenced in 2013, and the site was opened to the public in May 2015.
While not a large structure, encompassing approximately 100 square meters, there are many things of interest. The house features many characteristics of typical Japanese architecture, including tatami rooms and sliding doors (“shoji”). Various elements from outside traditional Japanese architecture, such as the Western-style round windows, give the building a unique character.
Visitors can observe and appreciate a host of antique furnishings, including devices such as a TV set, a typewriter, and a microscope. A photo album with black-and-white images of former residents offers further insight into life within the residence in years past. The house is also frequently used as a venue for lectures, workshops, and exhibitions.
ZhongPing Rd Story House
中平路故事館
Add: No. 99, Fuxing Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區復興路99號)
Tel: (03) 425-5008
Hours: 10 am – 5 pm (closed on Mon)
FB: www.facebook.com/ZhongpingRoadStoryHouse
Website: www.zhongpingstory.com (Chinese)
Peanut House
There is no shortage of unique food options in Zhongli. Peanut House, located about 500m west of the Zhongli Forest Story House, is a prime example. The shop can be easily recognized by a spinning gelato machine out front.
Established in 1911, the shop is a family-owned business still run by the Zhang family after four generations. They specialize in selling a variety of nuts, from pistachios to walnuts and cashews. However, after all these years, their most popular items remain their originals: roasted peanuts and peanut candies, all sourced from producers in Taiwan. The shop also sells groceries such as dried fruits, noodles, curries, coffees, and canned goods. Its chocolate selection includes imports from Japan, including hard-to-find regional KitKat flavors.
While there are other Peanut House outlets in Taoyuan, only the Zhongli location offers soft-serve ice cream. Introduced 15 years ago, it has become a standout feature, available in peanut, sesame, or mixed flavors, with the option of additional peanut or sesame sauce. One scoop costs NT$80, and two scoops are NT$140, both options including a complimentary cone.
Peanut House
張豐盛商行
Add: No. 349, Zhongzheng Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區中正路349號)
Tel: (03) 492-0606
Hours: 9 am – 5:30 pm
Website: cfs-ph.tw (Chinese)
Shock Shock
Roughly 300m north of the Zhongli Forest Story House, at the intersection of Zhongping and Minsheng roads, sits a noteworthy small stinky-tofu shop. Larger than a typical food stall yet smaller than a restaurant, this eatery offers limited outdoor seating. It features a somewhat refined take on the popular, pungent night-market snack. The straightforward menu presents a choice between a small NT$80 portion and a large NT$120 serving. The distinctive dish comes with kimchi, optional chili sauce, and can be paired with a soda or black tea.
Stinky tofu, a famously acquired taste, often turns out to be an insurmountable culinary hurdle for visitors to Taiwan. However, Shock Shock’s rendition is noticeably less pungent and oily compared to standard night-market fare. The tofu has a crispy texture and a mild flavor. Despite being a relatively recent addition to Zhongli’s culinary scene, established only five years ago, Shock Shock has quickly gained popularity among local food enthusiasts, so be prepared for queues during the lunch and dinner hours.
Shock Shock | 驚嘆號
Add: No. 201, Zhongping Rd., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區中平路201號)
Hours: 12:30 pm – 9:30 pm
Matsu New Village Cultural and Creative Park
Of course, there’s more to Zhongli than just the area around the train station. If you’re the kind of traveler who enjoys venturing beyond the normal tourist boundaries, hop on bus number 112, 115A, or 5008 to explore Matsu New Village Cultural and Creative Park, located about 2.5km southeast of the railway station.
Situated in a quieter part of Zhongli District, this park is a preserved 1950s military village. The large area is organized into four sections, each with numerous small houses. In the center, the Yuexin Pavilion offers a pleasant place to rest and take pictures.
To the right of the main entrance (Ln. 116, Longqing St.), you can visit the Matsu New Village History Exhibition, providing insights into the park’s past. Currently, it features a special section centered on old movies. Similar to the Japanese-era heritage sites mentioned earlier, here you can explore recreated rooms and preserved antique items, fostering historical understanding and a sense of nostalgia. Notably larger than the others, one room showcases a mahjong table, a mock dinner table laden with traditional dishes, and a vintage delivery bicycle. Another engaging installation, The Start of the Bao, explains the making of buns, alongside such other displays as The Start of the Knife, which introduces visitors to traditional cutlery.
Across the park’s residences, you’ll find more than 50 rooms focused on different aspects of life in the village. Be sure to look at the posted maps – they’re easy to spot and will help you find your way around. Some spots, like the creative studios, might only be open for special events.
The park isn’t just about history; you’ll also find gift shops, cafés, and restaurants scattered throughout. Take a stroll down the little alleyways and you might stumble upon Furry Furry (www.facebook.com/furryfurrypetrestaurant), a delightful cat café where you can relax with a drink and some furry companions. Another interesting stop is the Yunnan Ancient Tree Tea House, where they often have free tea samples out front for everyone to try. If you’re in the mood for Hong Kong flavors, Bean Corn (www.facebook.com/Minibeanietw) has you covered with teas and snacks. You’ll also find noodle places, hamburger joints, ice-cream and popsicle stands, and purveyors of sweet treats like cakes and waffles. Keep in mind that while some shops have English names and menus in both languages, many only have Chinese.
Matsu New Village Cultural and Creative Park
馬祖新村眷村文創園區
Add: No. 155, Longji 2nd St., Zhongli Dist., Taoyuan City
(桃園市中壢區龍吉二街155號)
Tel: (03) 284-1866
FB: www.facebook.com/ArtMatsuVillage
Website: matsu.tyccc.gov.tw (Chinese)
Zhongzhen Commercial District
For travelers who want to wander even further, Zhongzhen Commercial District is a busy shopping area with a unique character down in the Longgang neighborhood (part of which is in Pingzhen District), about 1km southeast of Matsu New Village. Longgang is especially noteworthy for its significant Yunnanese and Burmese cultural influence, particularly among the military community, established when Nationalist soldiers were brought back from the Yunnan/Burma border area, which has resided there for many decades (see page 6 for an introduction to the Zhongzhen New Village Cultural Park and surroundings).
Getting to Zhongli
Here are three primary public transport options for reaching Zhongli. The quickest route from Taipei is by conventional train from Taipei Main Station to Zhongli Railway Station, with travel times ranging from 35 minutes to an hour, depending on the train type. Another option is taking an intercity bus from stations such as Taipei Bus Station or Taipei City Hall Bus Station to Zhongli Bus Station, which is close to the railway station. You can also take the Taoyuan Airport MRT (passing through Taoyuan International Airport) to its southwestern terminus, Laojie River Station (A22), from which Zhongli Railway Station is about 15 minutes on foot.
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