Taiwan’s Ultimate Mountain Escape

Taiwan isn’t short on mountain scenery, but Alishan holds a different kind of status. It’s not just a scenic mountainous area – it’s a destination that brings together sunrise views, seas of clouds, ancient forests, heritage railways, and indigenous culture all in one place. It consistently ranks among the top destinations on international visitors’ Taiwan itineraries. This guide walks you through some of the key stops along the Alishan Highway, how to get there and get around, and what to do beyond the forest recreation area – whether you’re planning a day trip or an overnight stay.

🎁 There’s an exclusive KKday discount code at the end of this article — don’t forget to use it when you book!

What to See Along the Alishan Highway

The Alishan Highway (Provincial Highway 18) starts in Chiayi City and winds upward for about 84 kilometers to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, at an elevation of 2,200 meters above sea level. Several stops along the way are worth building into your itinerary.

Chiayi City

Chiayi is more than just a transit hub on the way to Alishan. The city is the western terminus of the Alishan Forest Railway, while its historic Hinoki Village preserves one of Taiwan’s largest collections of Japanese-era wooden buildings – many of which are closely tied to the history of the forestry industry. The local food scene is another reason to spend some time in the city: braised turkey rice is a Chiayi institution, and plenty of visitors make the trip just to try it.

Eryanping Trail

About an hour’s drive from Chiayi City, the trailhead for Eryanping Trail sits at the 53-kilometer mark on Highway 18. The trail runs for roughly 2 kilometers through tea plantations, with sweeping panoramic views. It’s not a difficult walk, with a one-way hiking time of around 60 minutes and several rest platforms along the route. The real payoff is what in Taiwan is known as the “sea of clouds,” most spectacular in winter, while the late-afternoon light also attracts photographers.

Fenqihu Old Street

Another 30 minutes up the highway and then along a minor road, Fenqihu sits at 1,400 meters above sea level. The station here was historically the largest intermediate stop on the Alishan Forest Railway – a place where trains paused, and passengers got off to eat, giving rise to Fenqihu’s famous railway bento box culture. That tradition continues today, and a bento box is still a must-try on arrival. The Old Street itself is about 500 meters long and takes around an hour to explore at a slow pace.

Alishan National Forest Recreation Area

Highway 18 finally takes you to the heart of any Alishan trip: the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area. The area is known for five signature experiences: sunrise, sea of clouds, forest, evening glow, and railway. Alishan’s ancient cypress and cedar groves, the Sister Ponds, and the old Shouzhen Temple are among the sights you’ll find within the area.

The most exciting experience is seeing the sunrise. Before dawn, visitors board the small forest train from Zhaoping Station up to Zhushan, where an observation platform faces the Central Mountain Range. On clear mornings, watching the sun rise behind Mt. Jade is the kind of view that justifies the early wake-up. Staying overnight in or near the recreation area is strongly recommended; the morning train fills up fast, and seats on the Zhushan Line should be booked in advance through the Alishan Forest Railway ticketing system. The following day’s schedule is announced at 4:30 p.m. the day before.

👉 Note: Fitting all of the above into a single day isn’t realistic. For a day trip, head straight to the forest recreation area and add either Eryanping Trail or Fenqihu – not both. For two days or more, spend the first day exploring Eryanping and Fenqihu, arrive at the recreation area in the evening, and catch the sunrise the next morning.

Getting There & Getting Around: Transport & the Forest Railway

Taiwan Tourist Shuttle

If you’re not driving, the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle is the most straightforward public transport option for getting to Alishan. There are two routes: the A Line departs from the High Speed Rail (HSR) Chiayi Station, while the B Line departs from the Taiwan Railway (TR) Chiayi Station. Both follow Highway 18 all the way to the Alishan National Forest Recreation Area, with some services stopping at Fenqihu along the way.

A multi-ride electronic ticket covers both lines, allowing up to four boardings each way and remaining valid for three days. This is practical if you want to hop off at different points along the route. Keep in mind that not every service stops at Fenqihu, so it’s worth double-checking the schedule when booking.

Alishan Forest Railway

The Alishan Forest Railway has been running for over a century, originally built to haul timber down from the mountains. As the train climbs, it passes through three distinct climate zones – tropical, subtropical, and temperate – allowing you to watch the vegetation transform along the way.

Within the forest recreation area itself, several branch lines connect the main sights. The Zhushan Line is the most in-demand: it departs from Zhaoping Station in the early hours of the morning and runs to Zhushan for the sunrise. The Shenmu Line and Zhaoping Line are useful for getting to other sights within the park.

Themed Trains — Formosensis & Vivid Express

For travelers who want the train journey itself to be a highlight, Alishan currently has two themed tourist trains worth knowing about. Both have limited seating and need to be booked well in advance.

Formosensis runs between Beimen Station (in Chiayi City) and Alishan Station (inside the forest recreation area). Its carriages are made of Taiwanese red cypress and cypress wood, with the scent of the timber noticeable as soon as you step on board. The windows are 165cm wide, and every seat is positioned to offer a clear view outside. One carriage is dedicated to Alishan-themed artwork, accompanied by cultural commentary.

Vivid Express operates between Chiayi Station and Fenqihu Station. The carriage interiors are scented with Alishan high-mountain tea and yulan magnolia, while ambient forest sounds play throughout the journey. The seats rotate 360 degrees, allowing passengers to adjust their view as the scenery changes along the route.

Indigenous Culture

For a completely different side of Alishan, make your way to Yuyupas Tsou Cultural Park in Leye Village, tucked at 1,300 meters above sea level in Alishan Township. It’s the most accessible, well-rounded indigenous cultural experience in the area. The grounds are surrounded by tea gardens and coffee plantations, and the atmosphere is noticeably quieter than the forest recreation area. It’s about a 15-minute drive from Fenqihu, so it pairs easily with a stop there.

The main attraction at Yuyupas is the daily Tsou indigenous cultural song-and-dance performance, held twice a day at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm. Running for around 40 minutes, it is included in the entrance ticket. Performances take place in a semi-open-air theater with a tea garden as backdrop – one of the more memorable settings you’ll find in Taiwan. Check the performance schedule when you arrive and plan the rest of your visit around it.

Beyond the cultural performance, the grounds also include a teahouse where Alishan high-mountain tea is prepared and explained by professional tea masters, as well as a café with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the mountain landscape, serving Alishan single-origin pour-over coffee. Both are also great places to pick up tea or coffee to take home.

🎁 Exclusive KKday Discount Code

Enter the code below when booking through KKday for an exclusive discount:

Code: KK06TWIKITAI6

About the author

Twelli

+ postsBio

• Twelli

  Your Complete Jiufen Guide
• Twelli

  Taipei 101 is More Than Just Visiting the Observatory!
• Twelli

  Woosa Pancake House
• Twelli

  Taoyuan International Airport to Taipei City